Deborah Madison's Pecan-Coffee Tart

When it comes to desserts I am crazy for bittersweet chocolate and I like lemon very much, but I loooove coffee the absolute most. This is strange because I almost never drink coffee-- but use it to flavor a buttercream or ice cream or some other dessert item and I can’t get enough.

Thanksgiving being just around the corner, I'm on the prowl for Thanksgiving desserts. Beyond the fact that it's a dessert that uses coffee, I was further attracted to this tart because it is built around piloncillo, an unrefined Mexican brown sugar -- a reason to shop in a Mexican grocery store!

I'm totally taken with ethnic grocery stores and often wander around wanting to buy one of everything but restraining myself because if I don't have a definite end use in mind for something, it tends to just sit in the cupboard and the cupboards at my house are already overly full from doing this sort of thing in the past. But here was an item with a definite use. A chance to go to a Mexican grocery store with a shopping list.

I was also interested in this recipe because Deborah Madison is one of those cookbook writers whose recipes seem always to be successful and are often unique flavor combinations.

Interestingly, the finished tart didn't taste to me of coffee, and I couldn't detect the flavor of the peppercorns that were added to the sugar mixture and then strained out. Unlike typical pecan pie which can be overwhelmingly sweet, this one has a more complex and warm flavor, yet still has the richness people expect with holiday desserts. My team of taste testers, also known as my parents, my sister, and my husband, all gave this hearty approval so this one looks like it's going to be part of the Thanksgiving lineup. 

Deborah Madison's Pecan-Coffee Tart

Tart Crust:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached white flour
4 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 teaspoons water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt together. Pulse in the food processor until it is the texture of cornmeal. Add water and vanilla and process until dough is a uniform texture and can be gathered in a ball.

2. Press the dough into a ten-inch tart pan. (Although I think it’s easier to roll out the dough and then press it into the pan.)  The sides should be 1/4 inch thick at the top, the bottom slightly thinner. Deborah Madison says that you may need to “fiddle” with this for a while to get it right but not to worry about overhandling because the tart dough will remain short and tender. I can confirm.)

3. Set the tart pan in the freezer to harden. I would give it at least 45 minutes in the freezer. Or make this ahead and freeze it until you are ready to use it..

4. Bake the frozen tart shell at 400 degrees until it is evenly browned, about 12 minutes. Check the tart shell during the baking and if it’s puffing up anywhere, prick the dough with the tip of a sharp knife to deflate.

Filling:

8 peppercorns
4 cloves
1 2-inch cinnamon stick
4 1/2 ounces piloncillo (or 3/4 cup of dark brown sugar plus 2 tablespoons molasses)
1/2 cup corn syrup
1/3 cup brewed espresso or other strong coffee
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons of half-and-half or cream
Pinch of salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon unbleached white flour
2 cups pecan halves.

1. Preheat the oven to 325.

2. Place pecans on a baking sheet and bake them until they are fragrant, about 5 minutes.
3.  In the meantime, bruise the peppercorns or cloves a little with a pestle, then combine them with the cinnamon, sugar, syrup, and coffee in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and then simmer until the piloncillo is dissolved.  Pour everything through a strainer into a bowl. Add the butter and stir until it’s melted.

4. Beat the eggs and yolks together, stir a few tablespoons of the sugar mixture into the eggs to temper them, then stir the eggs into the sugar mixture. .Add  the cream, salt, vanilla, and flour and stir it into the sugar mixture.

5. Arrange the pecan halves in the pre-baked tart crust. Don’t spend too much time arranging the pecan halves because they will rearrange themselves when the sugar mixture is poured over them. Gently pour the sugar mixture over the pecan halves then nudge the pecans back into place with a spoon.

6. Bake for 35 minutes or until the tart is set. Let it stand for awhile to cool somewhat and firm up before serving.

Comments

[sher]

As soon as I saw the picture--and the words "Deborah Madison," I got quite excited! It looks gorgeous--and I know that it had to be delicious, because she's able to combine ingredients in a way that always delights me. Her recipes NEVER disappoint. Wonderful! By the way, she grew up here in Davis, CA, where I live. Home girl made good!

Beautiful picture!

[Patricia Scarpin]

Aren't those taste testers the luckiest people ever?? :)
If I lived nearby you bet I'd be in line to be a tester too, Julie!

[Fairfax]

Wow... Julie, this sounds incredible. I love pecan pie, but think it's too cloying. I will have to keep looking at this recipe ('cause it's not like i am actually going to cook anything!).

[zp]

Your recent posts have been few and far between. But absolute gems. I love pecan pie and I love imagining one that is less sweet but - what was that - rich, warm and complex??!! Oh, I'm going to stop imagining and start baking one of these days.

I don't love the classic tart shell that goes with most pecan pies - have you ever seen/made/tasted any successful variations or alternatives?

[michelle]

Mmm - sounds fabulous! Pecan pie has always been a little sweet for me (though I'll happily gorge myself on a peice) so I'm intrigued...

[Miz S]

I can testify that this is an insanely delicious dessert. I was very lucky to be on the team of taste-testers.

[Lydia]

I've always shied away from the typical Southern pecan pie -- way too sweet for me. This one sounds much more balanced, though, so I will bookmark and try it.

[lobstersquad]

Beautiful.
as for the ethnic stores, I´m terrible. I buy stuff just for the labels, and end up cluttering my cupboards with things I can´t identify.

[Katie]

Groan.... - That looks and sounds wonderful! I had a dark chocolate pecan pie once that was also quite sinfully good. (Didn't make it, just ate it)
I'm the same way at little ethnic or specialty shops - and my pantry is groaning, as well!

[Deborah Dowd]

This looks like a candidate to repace the traditional pecan pie- the combination of flavors sounds incredible and a little less sweet than the traditional.

[Passionate Baker]

How similar are tastes are...bittersweet choc, lemon, coffee! Beautiful blog, lovely pictures & great dessert this!!

[blue plate]

Great looking tart!

[the bee]

cannot wait to add this recipe to my thighs.. er.. collection.
No problem, it will be right next to the pumpkin flan from food network. Let's hear more from you.. no need to always post a recipe..xx00- bee

[renata]

I will absolutely try this, the question is only when. I'm always a little afraid to tinker with the holiday pies, especially when it's a favorite of anyone (as in, my dad and classic pecan pie). But I've been itching for a deeper/more complex pecan pie that doesn't go too weird (weird being all relative: piloncillo is readily available in my hood). Thanks for the post.

By the way, how did you like this crust? Does the vanilla come through? So many pie crusts out there...

[Julie]

This looks really delicious. I'm a coffee freak too -- but I like mine both as a beverage AND as a dessert flavor. And I'm an ethnic grocery junkie as well. The next time you come to NYC, give me a shout and we'll go food-crawling in some serious places -- Chinatown, Little Pakistan, Kalustyan's Market, and all the Mexican groceries in my neighborhood...

[lindy]

I was so taken with this, I was going to make it for Thanksgiving, too. But then my last farmbox of the year was loaded with golden delicious apples- so I'm going with a tart tatin, I think.Otherwise, I'll never use them up. This is also why the veg are butternut squash and cabbage this year.
It's sort of nice, in a way, to have these decisions made for me. I'm printing this recipe up to bake for Christmas.

I'm also a big fan of coffee in sweets, and think that coffee icecream is the greatest flavor ever.

[Mimi]

I'm on the prowl, too, but I am leaning toward something with pumpkin. Last year I made your cranberry upside down cake - twice!

[Julie]

Sher, Deborah Madison is extraordinary and you were one of the people who made me pay attention to her, so thank you!

Patricia, I would happily add you to my group of taste testers. Although I might be so busy lobbying to be in your group of taste testers that being in mine wouldn’t be all that satisfying.

Fairfax, it’s a different take on pecan pie and I think it’s more satisfying. And aren’t you moving your office out of your kitchen? No excuses not to bake now.

zp, thanks! This tart shell is not particularly sweet and I thought it paired nicely with the filling. Most pecan pie crusts I’ve tasted have been classic pie crusts, and this is a tart crust which means butter rather than shortening.

Michelle, I feel exactly the same way. Unlike regular pecan pie that seems to be more about sweet than anything else, this one better showcases the pecans and other flavorings.

Miz S, thanks for being part of the taste test team (and for doing all the dishes).

Lydia, it seems that a lot of people find pecan pie overwhelming and this is a nice alternative.

Ximena, I love great labels too and I think of you whenever I see one.

Katie, oooohhh, dark chocolate pecan pie! That sounds sinfully good.

Deborah, I agree. It’s wonderful and I think it’s much better than a traditional pecan pie.

Thanks, passionate baker! Looks like you have some pretty wonderful stuff on your blog too.

Blueplate, thanks! My tarts’ looks are slowly improving. At least they’re no longer looking frankenstein-esque.

Bets, I hear you! My thighs suffer too.

Renata, I liked this crust, although I can’t say the vanilla came through in a big way. It was not too sweet which I liked and it was easy to handle which I also liked. Pie crust and I have never gone anywhere together and I’m just happy to find that I seem to be managing better with tart crusts. Deborah Madison describes this pastry as remaining short and tender no matter how much it’s handled.

Julie, thanks, I will definitely let you know. You are in food crawler's heaven there – a regular United Nations of foods.

Lindy, tarte tatin is a good choice and I’m considering making one of those too. And you’re a woman after my own heart. Coffee is my favorite flavor of ice cream too.

Mimi, it’s sort of fun to be prowling for dessert ideas, isn’t it? I’m looking forward to reading about what sort of pumpkin dessert you end up with.

[Danielle]

I am completely enthralled by this. It just looks so tasty, and the coffee idea is brilliant.

[cook eat FRET]

this sounds like my kind of tart. ok. you may have convinced me to try again. these ingredients are making me salivate. i too love coffee flavored buttercreams and ice-cream.
i'm gonna go for it next month and will report back.

[Cakespy]

I give this hearty approval and I haven't even tried it. This looks like it would be great with an afternoon coffee. Yum.

[aria]

uh huh yep yum!

[Mansi]

wow, that looks yummy! I'm just an ardent fan of pecan pie...made one myself this thanksgiving and served it with bourbon-flavored whip cream!! people went nuts over it, including myself:)

[Wiley]

I have cooked this a number of times! It is great and really WOWS your guests.