This past Friday, in an act that must have happened in thousands upon thousands of households, I reached into the refrigerator, removed the package of baby spinach, and tossed it into the trash. Today I hear on the news that the name of the company that packages the spinach suspected in the e. coli outbreaks is Natural Selection Foods. Please tell me I'm not the only one who sees the dark humor in that name.
Moving on to the soup:
Last winter I went through a big spate of trying winter squash soup recipes and never found one I really liked. They always seemed to be sort of bland, and no matter what else was in them (apples, leeks) they never seemed that interesting. This recipe from Sunday Suppers at Lucques suffers from none of that; it's lively with great depth of flavor. In fact, the batch I just made was a little more lively than I anticipated due to having a little too free a hand with the cayenne pepper I was using in place of the chile de arbol.
The candied pumpkin seeds are not essential but they're fun. I've had the soup with and without and it's able to stand on it's own.
Suzanne Goin's Squash and Fennel Soup With Creme Fraiche and Candied Pumpkin Seeds
2 pounds kabocha squash (or substitute another winter squash -- I used butternut)
2 medium bulbs of fennel
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups sliced onions
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
2 chiles de arbol
1 bay leaf
3/4 cup sherry
10 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup creme fraiche
candied pumpkin seeds
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees
2. Cut squash in half lengthwise. Remove seeds and peel from squash and cut into inch thick wedges. Cut the fennel in half lengthwise and cut into 1 inch wedges. Toss the squash and fennel with olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and freshly ground pepper. Place the vegetables flat on a baking sheet and roast about 35 minutes, until tender and slightly carmelized.
3. Toast the fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat until the seeds become fragrant and lightly browned, about 2 or 3 minutes. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
4. Heat soup pot over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter and when it foams, add the onions, fennel seeds, thyme, chiles, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt, and a good amount of freshly ground black pepper. Reduce the heat to medium high and cook until the onions are translucent and starting to color.
5. Add the squash and fennel, and stir to coat with the onions for a minute. Turn the heat back up to high and pour in the sherry. Let it reduce for a minute or two, and then add the stock and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer 20 minutes.
6. Puree the soup in batches. Strain the solids from the broth, reserving both. Put a third of the solids into the blender with 1/2 cup of the broth. Process at low speed until the squash mixture is pureed. Add another 1/2 cup broth and puree at high speed. Add additional broth, a little at a time, until the soup has the consistency of heavy cream. Blend at least a minute on high speed until the soup is completely smooth and very creamy. Transfer to a container, and repeat with remaining ingredients. You may not need all the liquid. Taste for balance and seasoning. 7. Pour soup into bowls, spoon creme fraiche into center, and sprinkle with pumpkin seeds.
Candied Pumpkin Seeds
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Generous pinch each: ground cinnamon, cayenne, and paprika
1 teaspoon honey
Kosher Salt
1. Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan until the seeds are fragrant and lightly browned. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
2. Melt the butter in the cumin pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and sugar, then sprinkle the spices and a healthy pinch of salt over them. Toss the pumpkin seeds to coat them well with the butter, an cook a few minutes, until just after they begin to pop and color slightly. Turn off the heat, wait 30 seconds, then add the honey, and toss the pumpkin seeds until they are well coated. Spread on a plate and let them cool.
Notes: I was not as fussy as Suzanne Goin is about the pureeing of the squash (one of many, many, many things that separates a famous chef from your average kitchen schlub) and I just pretty much pureed it willy-nilly but towards the end it was looking a little thin and I held back some of the liquid. I also strained the soup using an applesauce strainer (which I believe is correctly called a china cap) that I bought at a flea market for $5 years ago. It's a bitch to store (it has a stand that holds it above a bowl) but it's a very handy thing.
(I've just realized how many parentheses I've used here -- possibly more than I've used in all my other posts combined. I have no idea what's going on with this but if there is any sort of lifetime quota on the use of parentheses I'm sure I've just exceeded it. )
An unfortunate name, indeed! That soup sounds lovely. I think I'll file it away in my winter recipes, perhaps to cook when it's not over 80 degrees outside. :)
Posted by: Colin | September 18, 2006 at 04:54 PM
Julie-
I've been curious about this cookbook. I don't know if it should get a place on the shelf. The soup looks great, though! I love winter squash, and this is also quite healthy. The spinach thing is a bummer, isn't it? I love the bagged stuff.
Posted by: Julie O'Hara | September 19, 2006 at 09:30 AM
wow, this is SO autumnal! Man, I can't wait for the weather to get seasonal so I can make something awesome and fall-y!
and didn't you learn anything from my chili/chile problem? just kidding! i bet the heat was delicious!
Posted by: ann | September 19, 2006 at 12:28 PM
Aha! Kitchen wizardry! Yay! Your curse must be lifted! This soup sounds excellent - especially with the candied seeds. There's nothing like anything pumpkin-seedish to go with autumn. (and I seem to use quite a few parentheses myself!)
Posted by: Michelle | September 19, 2006 at 02:15 PM
this looks delicious, the candied pumpkin seeds especially. this cought my eye because i have reservations at Lucques for sunday supper next month. i cant wait!!! :) grat job on the soup, it looks seriously yummy!
Posted by: aria | September 19, 2006 at 03:09 PM
Beautiful!! And I can't imagine making that without the pumpkin seeds. They sound so good, I would probably need to make a lot of them to munch on. Such a pretty picture.
Posted by: sher | September 19, 2006 at 03:22 PM
I was with you from the moment you wrote toasted cumin seeds...ahhh the muse is with you...glad to see it. (and no, parentheses give me a sense of relief, that you think from left field - and like it)...fear not...
Nicky
Posted by: Nicola | September 19, 2006 at 08:17 PM
Hahaha, I can see the humor there.
I love the color of the soup. Those candied pumpkin seeds sound delicious! I think it's a great fall recipe.
Posted by: From Our Kitchen | September 19, 2006 at 08:37 PM
Now this looks great. Could this be done with pumpkin instead of squash ?
Posted by: the bee | September 20, 2006 at 03:31 AM
Heh. Her name looks like "groin."
Posted by: Miz S | September 20, 2006 at 05:58 AM
I really am wanting this book. BTW, I have been toasting the butternut squash seeds themselves in the oven, and garnishing my squash soup with them for a while now. I don't sweeten them-I use coarse salt and smoked spanish paprika, and spray them with olive oil before toasting. I do like the idea of candied ones, but don't think you'd necessarily have to get pumpkin seeds to do it. Every dish I've seen from this cookbook looks so good.
Posted by: lindy | September 20, 2006 at 10:05 AM
Natural selection, indeed.
"Save the native New Mexican chiles!" is one of our bumper stickers (it's a long story) and I would love to try some Chimayó chile pepper in that soup.
Oooooh on outstanding ochre!
I suppose we shouldn't encourage Miz S, but she is a funny gal!
Posted by: bonnie | September 21, 2006 at 10:24 AM
Yum yum yum, this sounds great. I have this book and inexplicably have not tried any of the recipes yet - almost all of them appeal to me and I've had a hard time deciding where to start, I guess!
Posted by: Tiny Banquet Committee | September 21, 2006 at 02:02 PM
I'm SO trying this! I've been wanting that cookbook for a while. I may break down and buy it this weekend.
Those pumpkin seeds would be a good snack, too!
Posted by: Anne | September 21, 2006 at 03:58 PM
I'm late to the party - clearly it's a very good thing that I don't often buy fresh spinach, because I do not watch TV and would not have known about the e.coli thing. Ugh!
That is some lovely soup - I like the color, actually... I wonder if they could make that into a paint? It would look fantabulous with chocolate brown accents.
Posted by: Mrs. S | September 21, 2006 at 05:25 PM
Any soup made with Pumpkin or Squash is good for me - perfect seasonal and autumnal food.
The use of candied seeds is inspired.
Posted by: Scott at Real Epicurean | September 23, 2006 at 12:29 AM
The good news about the whole spinich outbreak was that there was 0 percent chance of me having it in the fridge or eating it or feeding it to the kids. I hate the stuff. Had this been artichokes, I would already be dead .
Posted by: the bee | September 24, 2006 at 12:19 AM
Colin, I agree, squash soup is definitely cold weather cooking. And I bet your 80 degree weather is gone by now.
Julie, I would definitely recommend this cookbook. I've only made two things from it (both of which were very good), but just reading it is very inspiring. She really seems to weave very complex, interesting tastes.
ann, I apparently learned nothing from your chile/chili problem. Stop and taste before you get so heavy-handed with the stuff would be a good thing to learn. I make no promises though.
Michelle, you're right, pumpkin seeds are very fall-ish. (And glad I have company with the parentheses thing.)
aria, you lucky girl! I'm looking forward to hearing about your meal. This books makes me think that Lucques must be a great restaurant.
sher, yes, the pumpkin seeds are a great addition and I did a fair amount of snacking on them myself.
Nicky, thanks Nicky. I DO sometimes think from left field.
Fom Our Kitchen, good! I'm glad to know I am not the only person who thought that was an oddly humorous name under the circumstances.
Bets, absolutely!
Miz S, it's an odd name...
Lindy, I agree, squash seeds would work also. Also agree about everything in this cookbook looking good. I really enjoy this book.
bonnie, Miz S IS funny and don't worry, Miz S doesn't need encouragement. I've never had chimayo peppers. I'll have to check them out.
TBC, I understand. I also bought this book a while ago and I've been reading it forever. Lots of good things to choose amongst.
Anne, I have only good things to say about the cookbook. I don't think you'll regret purchasing it.
Mrs. S, just take a copy of the picture to the paint store and have them match it. I think it would look fantabulous indeed with the chocolate brown accents.
Scott, I also think the candied pumpkin seeds are an inspired touch and that sort of inspired touch is very representative of the recipes in this book.
bets, if it had been artichoke , I probably would have taken a chance and eaten it anyway.
Posted by: Julie | September 25, 2006 at 01:18 AM
Does candying keep the seeds crunchy? Because I have garnished pumpkin soup with the toasted seeds and then been sorry, as it seems the seeds get soggy and tough when they hit the hot soup. I love toasting the seeds in a frying pan in peanut oil, with coarse salt, but I haven't had any luck with them staying crisp or crunchy in a soup or a muffin (I tried that once, too).
This sounds similar to a curried pumpkin (or squash) soup that I have made--I think the curry-type spices really bring out the flavor in winter squash.
Posted by: Rebecca | September 27, 2006 at 09:49 PM
Rebecca, the seeds don't stay particularly crispy but I still think they add nice texture. Last night I made this soup but didn't have time to candy the seeds so I just toasted them instead and still found them to be a good addition.
Posted by: Julie | October 02, 2006 at 10:16 AM
I saw this when you posted it and immediately wanted to try it: the addition of fennel is something I would never have imagined on my own, and--like you said--squash soups are so often bland (or worse, taste like dessert).
At this moment, I am just tucking into some of my batch, and it's delicious. I made a few changes, based on what I had around (or, more accurately, what I didn't have around): I didn't add the creme fraiche or the pumpkin seeds, I used 2 tsp. of ancho chile powder instead of arbol (ancho is less spicy than cayenne), and I used a mixture of mostly white wine and a little bit of mirin for the sherry (figuring sherry often subs for mirin in Chinese food, so why not go the other way). I also added a tsp. of ground coriander.
Finally, after the puree, I ran it all through the food mill since I was nervous about the fibers in the squash and the fennel.
So good. Thanks for the post!
Posted by: littlebouffe | October 06, 2006 at 03:27 AM
littlebouffe, I bet the ancho chile was a nice touch. I think of it as being more flavorful than cayenne.
Posted by: Julie | October 07, 2006 at 12:41 AM
WOW> I'd love to taste this!
Posted by: Thomas of Baltimore | October 09, 2006 at 12:41 PM
hello,
i recently made this soup and it was delicous! the candied pepitas were so addicting.
Posted by: susan | March 15, 2007 at 04:38 PM
I just made this tonight and it was delicious! Thanks for this recipe. You can't beat how easy it is, plus it tastes great. Thanks again!
Posted by: Krema za vene | December 01, 2009 at 09:42 AM
We made this (using butternut squash) and it's great! We didn't opt for the toppings even though they looked great, as we were pressed for time, but even without it's a very good soup. We also added an extra bulb of fennel and just ran an immersion blender through it; it isn't as smooth as the recipe intends but that's fine. I think it'd be even better with kabocha.
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