Canh Chua Tom aka Sweet and Sour Shrimp Soup aka Fisherman's Soup

This combination of shrimp, pineapple, and tomato in a gently sweet-sour tamarind broth is my favorite soup. It goes by various names (hence the title of my post) and seems to be a staple in Vietnamese restaurants, or at least I've never been in a Vietnamese restaurant that didn't serve it.

It's the sort of thing that seems open to endless variation. I've had it with squid or fish instead of shrimp, with okra added, or with rice noodles added. One of my favorite restaurants which made one of my favorite versions of this added thinly sliced hearts of celery. They also used to add little bits of crispy shallot which were a terrific addition. I've had it garnished with cilantro, Thai basil, or mint. Sometimes it has hot peppers in it, sometimes it doesn't. I once had it flavored with cumin which I don't recommend.

Since I no longer have easy access to a Vietnamese restaurant -- there seem to be only two within the Baltimore city limits and I'm not crazy about either of them-- I have taken to making this soup myself. Coming up with a decent version took awhile; the thing that truly had me stumped when first making it was the broth. The internet was full of recipes that suggested adding lime to a broth made with shrimp shells, or just a broth made from simmering the pineapple, tomato, and shrimp with fish sauce but none of them tasted right. It wasn't until I found a recipe from Nicole Routhier's The Foods of Vietnam that I realized that the secret to the broth was tamarind.

Tamarind is a common ingredient in southeast Asian and Indian cooking. It comes from a pulp found in the seed pods of the tamarind tree and it's sold in Asian and Indian markets in 8-oz blocks which are a sticky mixture of the pulp and the seeds. To use it, it is first soaked in boiling water and then forced through a sieve. (For more complete instructions and some funny observations on the nature of tamarind, see this post from Tiny Banquet Committee about making banana tamarind chutney.) The sieved pulp is then stirred into the soup where it adds a gentle and pleasant tartness.

This past weekend I found pineapple at a reasonable price at my supermarket, and because Saturday was a mild, spring-like day (unlike the day before which was 15 degrees at 7 a.m., or the day after which was grey with snow flurries) this soup was our light dinner. It's not a soup for frigid weather -- it's delicate, not rib-sticking. But for a mild winter day, it's perfect.

Spicy and Sour Shrimp Soup

adapted from Nicole Routhier's The Foods of Vietnam

2 ounces of lump tamarind

1/2 cup boiling water

8 ounces medium shrimp (31-35 size), shelled

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1/4 cup, plus 1 teaspoon nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 shallots, thinly sliced

3 stalks fresh lemongrass, white bulb crushed and cut into three 2-inch sections

1 large ripe tomato, cored, seeded and cut into wedges

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 fresh, ripe pineapple, cored, cut into 1/4" slices, and then cut crosswise into small chunks

1 celery heart, the pale inner section, ribs only, sliced very thin

1 teaspoon salt

2 fresh chili peppers, minced  (optional)

1/2 cup fresh bean sprouts (optional)

1 scallion, thinly sliced (optional)

2 tablespoons shredded mint or cilantro leaves

1. Soak the tamarind in the boiling water for 15 minutes or until the tamarind is soft. Using the back of a spoon, press the tamarind through a fine sieve into a small bowl.

2. Toss the shrimp with 1 teaspoon of fish sauce, chopped garlic, and pepper. Let stand for 30 minutes.

3. Heat the oil in a 3 quart sauté pan. Add the shallots and lemon grass and sauté briefly without browning. Add the tomato and sugar and cook over medium heat until slightly soft. Add the pineapple and celery and cook stirring for about two minutes.

4. Add 5 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the sieved tamarind, salt, and the remaining 1/4 cup fish sauce. Turn heat down, and simmer gently for about 5 minutes. Stir in the chiles and bean sprouts if using them and the shrimp. Cook for about 30 seconds, than remove from the heat and allow to sit for about 30 seconds to 1 minute more, or until the shrimp is cooked through.  Be careful not to overcook the shrimp here.

5. Add scallions and/or mint or cilantro and serve.

Purported to make 4 to 6 servings but if it's all you're having for dinner, it's enough for two people.

Comments

[the bee]

In Bethesda, Sala Thai is the best.
I will take you next time you are here. This looks yummy but is more work than I am willing to do.
Did you eat anything w/ this?
A nice spring roll perhaps?
It is now very cold and I am making some stuffed pork chops tommorow. MMMMM. Call when you are ready for truly great Thai food served by some of the nicest people on earth. the bee

[Tanna]

Wow, that is a beautiful fresh looking soup. Wish I could have shared. Oh, and a spring roll would have been perfect with it.

[Homesick Texan]

I've never cooked with tamarind before, but love the flavor. This soup sounds so bright and delicious!

[Nicola]

I don't understand...there are no artichokes in it. It looks beautiful actually...

[Fairfax]

Julie... That's gorgeous! I would do it with basil, since I hate cilantro.

[lobstersquad]

Everything I hear about Vietnamese food makes me so want to try some. No restaurants here, though. Will have to be content that at least we´re beginning to have decent Chinese.

[Luisa]

Thrilling! That's my favorite thing to order in Vietnamese restaurants. And when you've tried a GREAT version, nothing else measures up. Thanks for the recipe, I can't wait to try this myself.

[Michelle]

This will be my first attempt at Vietnamese cooking. Wish me luck--the picture was too good to pass up.

[Susan at Food "Blogga"]

Oh, I just love Vietnamese cooking. And this is a lovely bowl of soup. I'll make it just like yours for my husband, and I'll put tofu in mine! :) Thanks!

[Anne]

Mmmmm...this is one of my favorite soups too. I tried making it and it didn't turn out right. Now I know why!

[Lydia]

Delicious soup, though I can't agree that chili peppers would be optional! They are absolutely required!!!

[Mimi]

I think I would like this — it looks filling but slimming, savory and fresh at once.

[blue plate]

Tamarind is a wonderful thing. It's the secret to the sour in South East Asian cooking. Your soup looks delicious.

[lindy]

I am going to make this this weekend-it sounds perfectly wonderful.

[Fairfax]

Julie... I went to Han Au Reum last night, which has been renamed H-Mart! gaaack! I saw a bunch of tamarind, but resisted buying it. I also wandered up to the Seoul Mart, where they have another big "international" grocery store. A little scarier than H-Mart, but no crowds. Hmmm.

[sher]

I have to make that!! It looks marvelous--all those flavors. And using the fresh pineapple would make it very special. I love tamarind.

[Renata]

This looks so refreshing and clean; I will have to try it. LAtely I've been hemming and hawing over Vietnamese cookbooks: there aren't enough for me to guess about any standouts, but I'll look into this one.

Thanks.

[Julie]

Bets, I’ve been to Sala Thai (ages ago) and it is good. Yes, we’ll have to go sometime.

Tanna, it is a pretty soup and I don’t think this picture really captures it. It would have been fun to have you here to share it and I agree with you that a spring roll would have been a good addition.

Homesick Texan, it’s inexpensive and easy to use. As you probably know, it’s also used sometimes in Mexican cooking.

Nicola, I know, no artichokes. But I’m trying to take just a little break from my obsession.

Fairfax, cilantro is not necessary. Mint is also good.

lobstersquad, Vietnamese food is extraordinary. If you ever get the chance to try it, you should.

Luisa, it’s simple to make. Of course, you have access to lots and lots of Vietnamese restaurants. Not that I’m envious, or anything.

Michelle, I wished you lots of luck. I hope it went well.

Susan, excellent idea. Tofu is another good riff.

Anne, tamarind seems to be the secret ingredient.

Lydia, I had it for ages in different restaurants before I had a version with chili peppers. I prefer it without but maybe that’s because my first experience with the soup did not include chilis.

Mimi, yes, all reasons why I like it.

blue plate, this soup was my first experience with tamarind and it’s a great flavor.

Lindy, I hope you like it.

Fairfax, H-Mart is a pretty impressive place. In the city you can also buy it at the Asian market (not sure what the name of it is) at 523Gorsuch Ave right by the new Giant.

sher, it’s very unusual and extremely good. I bet you’d like it.

Renata, I enjoy this one and Mai Pham’s Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table. I also have my eye on the new one by Andrea Nguyen.

[Susan]

This is It!! the soup that my local vietnamese restaurant recently removed from the menu, much to my dismay. I had been eating it for 20 years and suddenly it was not available. This is fabulous. I have made it three times with great success. Thank you!!!
Susan

[Julie]

What was your local restaurant thinking when they took such an amazingly great soup off the menu? That's crazy stuff.

But it really is pretty easy to make at home. Glad you enjoyed it.

[Choideactitte]

Lots of folks confuse bad management with destiny.
-- Frank Hubbard

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